A relatively new addition to an ever-evolving section of Chiswick High Road between Turnham Green Terrace and Goldhawk Road, Pho caught my eye a month or so ago. My sister mentioned she’d been to another Pho before and enjoyed it, and, being a fellow veggie foodie, I decided to sample it for myself.
I went along on a recent humid evening and, in the interests of trying a cross-section of food (and being able to have a catch-up without toddlers in tow), I enjoyed a night out with one of my good friends from NCT who enjoys meat and fish.
Our hopes for a table outside were dashed when we got there at 8 pm—it was already packed, so instead we headed to a table in the dark interior. They don’t usually reserve tables and it seemed busy, but luckily there was plenty of room inside. As we were shown to a table benefiting from a lovely cool breeze, I realised it was actually the better choice. Even when asked if we would prefer to move outside later on, we decided to stay put. My friend, who’s travelled a lot for work, said it felt authentically Asian—efficient aircon and all.
The decor of bamboo tables and rattan wallpaper did make it feel like we’d left Chiswick far behind us; it was good to be eating Asian food in a restaurant with atmosphere, rather than a sterile canteen environment. The staff were attentive and impressively knowledgeable. They explained the origins of the sauces already lined up on the table (a couple of them were homemade) and were able to take me through the menu in detail and make good recommendations. The dishes are based around the street food concept and I found them to be very reasonably priced (most mains between £8 and £10), especially for the area.
Our waiter also explained how to pronounce “Pho”, the national dish of Vietnam: it’s “Fuh” rather than “Fo”, which set the tone for an evening of mispronunciation on my part. Mind you, the Hanoi Mule I ordered can’t have helped: it was delicious but strong and there was definitely the famous kick it’s named for. That was one of a range of classic cocktails with a Vietnamese twist—like Phojito or Dua Colada—all made with award-winning Son Tinh spirits or Vietnamese vodka. There was also a good range of wine and beer to choose from.
The menu was full but not overwhelmingly so, and everything on it was clearly explained. We started with a selection of veggie summer rolls, Goi Cuon, and fried spring rolls, Cha Gio Chay (by now my poor pronunciation was getting into full flow). Each dish came beautifully presented and with two good sauces, peanut and chilli. The summer rolls—made with fresh rice paper and filled with noodles and vegetables—were soft and tasty, but it was the fried spring rolls that I loved. They were a generous size, very crispy and delicious.
For my main I sampled the signature dish—Pho, of course, which is rice noodle soup offered in several variations. Mine was the Pho Chay: tofu and mushrooms in veggie stock. My friend chose Bun Cha Gio Tom: vermicelli noodles with juicy tiger prawns, a spring roll and nuoc cham sauce, which is poured over the dish. Both were lovely and packed with flavour. I particularly liked the DIY approach—a generous range of freshly cut herbs and ground chillies were brought alongside the soup, leaving you to add as little or as much as you liked. I avoided the coriander but stirred in everything else. My friend’s Bun noodles were so filling she asked for a doggie bag so she could enjoy the rest at lunch the next day!
Other dishes that caught my eye included the mildly spiced Com Tam curries and Goi, Vietnamese salads that sounded more like crisp stir fries than limp lettuce. Full as we were, it would have been churlish not to sample the puddings, which included a small selection of ice creams, a banana fritter and a pandan pancake. I was persuaded by our waiter to go for the Banh so-co-la truffle, which was as delicious as it sounds: a chocolate truffle slab served with refreshing and subtle green tea ice cream. I also tried some of my friend’s ginger ice cream, which was creamy and flavourful.
No evening would be complete without a digestif of the house spirit. A fruit liquor made from rice, Tao Meo (rose apple) was pungent and like most local drinks, probably best enjoyed in situ. At 27 percent volume, it’s for sipping gently rather than gulping.
Although we were enjoying an adult evening out, the restaurant is fully equipped for child diners, with an interesting kids’ menu based around miniature versions of noodle and rice dishes (apparently the chicken noodles are particularly popular) and a colouring sheet. Weekend lunches are the most popular family times. The changing room was also generous and very clean, but it didn’t feel like there was a lot of space for pushchairs.
We headed out into the night full and happy. I left feeling that, above all, the staff were proud of their restaurant—and so they should be. Pho doesn’t feel like a chain but an authentic experience with food that amply satisfies both veggie and omnivore tastebuds.
For more info: www.phocafe.co.uk
Location: 134 Chiswick High Road, London, W4 1PU
About the author:
Jessica is a new-ish mum living in and loving west London. She’s likely to be seen drinking coffee in Chiswick or on the Askew Road and most places in between. She also relishes escaping when she can – particularly to her native Cornwall. She lives with her husband and, as of March 2012, little girl ‘Scrip’ (not her real name, they’re not that cruel). Find her on newmumblings.com or @newmumblings or instagram: newmumblings
